Rock Climbing in Cornwall - with Kernow Klimber Tel: 07841 746334
RSS Follow Become a Fan

Recent Posts

Trials and Tribulations
Two days of Fun
Changes at Chair Ladder
Long Time, No Hear
It never rains, it pours

Categories

BMC Info
Exploration
Injury Update
Rock Climbing
Scottish Winter
Seasons Greetings
powered by

My Blog

Mountain High

Well, that seems to be the end of the summer, even though it is still June! It has been a long run of glorious weather over most of the UK and that has lead to lots of people out climbing, particularly on the high mountain crags that are usually out of condition for most of the year. In between bouts of work up in the Lake District with the Army, I managed to sneak in a couple of days climbing in North Wales.
 
Glyders sunset, while climbing on CloggyI hooked up with my old climbing buddy, Norman "the Ormesman" Clacher. He is the keenest guy I know and will always jump at the chance to climb on the majestic Clogwyn D'ur Arddu. Set high on the flanks of Snowdon, Cloggy (as the crag is affectiionately known amongst it's disciples), takes a long spell of dry weather to come into condition. Since his first visit, back in 1982, Norman has walked up from Llanberis to climb nearly 100 routes on the cliff, from VDiffs to E7s. I have accompanied him on several of these pilgrimages and have close to 50 Cloggy routes myself. These trips have always been fun affairs, where Norman would happily second me on a 'classic' climb that he had done before, then I would follow him on some esoteric horrorshow that most people just ignore!
 
On the way to climb on Cloggy
It was a warm and muggy afternoon, and the walk up from Llanberis felt hard. Norman is over 50, but fit as a fiddle and would usually rush off up the track, but he stayed with me and we chatted about past Cloggy adventures.  There were very few parties on the cliff. In previous times, on similar afternoons, one would have to queue for a climb, but these days, with the advent of sports climbing, the majority of climbers have stayed away from this magnificent crag.  More fool them!  Our chosen route was "The Orb", a climb that doesn't see many ascents.  Situated high up on the Far East Buttress, we had to climb up the first half of Jubilee Climb to gain the starting terrace.  Jubilee Climb has become known as a good mixed winter climb, and sadly, the rock in the crux corner has become marked by the passage of many crampons and axes. There was also quite a bit of insitu gear (slings, tat, jammed nuts etc) - sign of a great epic, perhaps?  I remember soloing Jubilee Climb several years ago, and there was none of this detritus then. Such a pity.
 
The Ormesman on the terrace, before the attack of the midges
Below the start of The Orb, we were attacked my hoards of marauding midges!  I had never experienced anything like it in Wales.  There were clouds of them! It was just like being in the Highlands of Scotland!  These little insects can drive the unfortunate victim insane, buzzing in your ears and nose.  They bite every millimetre of exposed flesh.  We moved fast!  A steep, short pitch lead quickly to the sanctity of a higher ledge below the main pitch.  Norman struggled with the crux...a lack of large gear on our part didnt help matters.  There was a bit of loose rock too, which is quite normal for the less frequented climbs on Cloggy. I followed, glad of the rope above me.  The next pitch led up over large, loose blocks, before disappearing up a chimney, formed by a huge, detached section of the crag. I made sure I travelled carefully, making sure not to disturb any loose rock that could hit Norman.
 
Climbing high on The Orb, Cloggy
 
Once I pulled onto the top of the crag, the midges descended in their thousands...and, like cowards, we ran away!  The onslaught was incredible!  I do hope the midge doesn't find it's way to Cornwall!  We descended the Eastern Terrace to return to our rucksacks, followed by the midges.  High on part of Cloggy, known as The Pinnacle, a couple of  'hotshots' were making an on-sight attempt of "It will be alright on the night", a climb graded E7.  A fine effort, given the midge problem!  News of this, and other, onsight repeats on Cloggy this month have been posted on UKClimbing.  Click "here" for the report.
 
Eaten alive by the midges!
The Pinnacle, Cloggy
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The next day was damp and wet.  With no stomach to climb on wet rock, we headed down to that favourite wet weather location, Tremadog.  Again, it had been ages since I had climbed on this fantastic  roadside cliff.  Here the atmosphere is more relaxed, as the rock is clean, solid (ish) and in the sun for most of the day.  We dived into the cafe that is run by Eric Jones, the quiet, unassuming welsh man, who despite being in his 70's, still rides a motorbike, goes BASEjumping and who, in his youth, made the first solo ascent of the North Face of the Eiger.  It was a slow day in the cafe and Eric, Norman and I shared stories of climbing epics and climbing legends, over a brew, before Norman and I went out to the crag to climb a couple of classics...Merlin Direct and The Plum.
 
Climbing on Merlin Direct, Tremadog

36 Comments to Mountain High:

Comments RSS
hospedagem de sites on 08 July 2013 08:17
With no stomach to climb on wet rock, we headed down to that favourite wet weather location, Tremadog.
Reply to comment
 
Bradley Tradesman on 12 February 2016 10:18
Hey there, I should say it was a really terrific experience for me when I visited your website. I just wished to praise you on the excellent quality of your work and to send you bon chance with it as you advance in the future. It was nice to surf your site and I shall most certainly be calling back again soon to discover how you are doing. Thank you and I shall see you here soon - Sergio Craftsman


Picos de Europa on 03 September 2013 11:31
Great piece of writing the summer camps on the mountains, I really liked the way you highlighted some really important and significant points. Thanks so much, I appreciate your work.
Reply to comment


Motorcycle Parts in Riverside on 23 December 2013 06:02
Hello I simply love your wonderful site and you can continue.
Reply to comment


Forklift Training Melbourne on 11 January 2014 20:12
Your article is very nice. You have provided interesting information. I will return to your site often to check. Keep up with your good work.
Reply to comment


Office Supplies Perth on 26 January 2014 13:02
nice blog
Reply to comment


Best Food available In Colorado on 07 May 2014 06:24
The article which has been posted is simply impressive and interesting.I must appreciate the writer who shown good efforts by posting such an informative article here.
Reply to comment


Live Fussball Chancen vegas on 07 May 2014 20:40
Online Wetten Sport
Reply to comment


website on 02 August 2014 11:10
Of course instructions if you ever chose a excellent constructor. from one particular destination for a the ground in any wide range of sites on the areas as well finally, the ceiling
Reply to comment


first aid courses on 02 August 2014 18:27
What a great idea!! i'ld like to know more how many people you met on 1st sept, i'm quite late to see this blog.Very good! Nice information this is really interesting. Good luck in building the table. Thanks for taking the time to discuss this, I feel strongly about it and love learning more on this topic. If possible, as you gain expertise, would you mind updating your blog with more information? It is extremely helpful for me.
Reply to comment


shakib at Gazi Tank on 30 August 2014 06:17
Thank you for sharing, which for me is very useful! In addition, I also have a good shop selling imitation table recommended to you, we hope to help you!
Reply to comment


internet university on 31 August 2014 09:40
Thank you for your kind comments. Please keep coming back as more useful information will be posted in the next few weeks. The education year has just started here in the UK, and for graduating overseas students, this is the time to start looking ahead for an education based in the UK. For younger students, next summer is the opportune time to look into summer courses to help with English tuition or cultural education. for more information on our services please don't hesitate to contact us at info@link-learn.com. Best wishes from Link & Learn.
Reply to comment


war criminals on 01 September 2014 06:15
This is impressive and also great information.
Reply to comment


web hosting dedicated server on 02 October 2014 10:42
I would like to articulate thankfulness you for this very good facts and figures! I am very involved for this post.This place is so cooperative. thank you for your nice shearing ... Thanks!
Reply to comment


I need female friends on 19 October 2014 07:05
Thank you for your kind comments. It is always encouraging to receive positive feedback. We strive to match the educational needs of our clients to the school best suited to them. In doing so, we aim to make sure the student maximizes their potential in whatever goal they have in life. Please keep returning for updates as they happen and don't forget to check our our Facebook page for the more fun side of learning.
Reply to comment


Basic Scaffold Training on 28 December 2014 10:45
It is really nice to read such a good post…I like it…
Reply to comment


James Dean on 30 January 2015 19:05
If you need any bail bond related help, you can solve the problem by hiring a professional bail bond service
Reply to comment


swiss rolex on 11 October 2015 02:55
There were very few parties on the cliff.
Reply to comment


Fake Chanel on 14 December 2015 09:22
Well, that seems to be the end of the summer, even though it is still June!
Reply to comment


Helmet I like on 09 January 2016 21:20
If you don't mind continue returning as more valuable data will be posted in the following couple of weeks. The training year has quite recently begun here in the UK, and for graduating abroad understudies, this is an ideal opportunity to begin looking ahead for an instruction situated in the UK. For more youthful understudies, next summer is the fortunate time to investigate summer courses to help with English educational cost or social training. Thanks!
Reply to comment


online first aid courses on 10 February 2016 08:16
hi there in addition to cheers inside your data? I've got undoubtedly grabbed something fresh via right here. Used to do then again encounter various technological factors using this particular web page, since i have competent to once again install the web site a great deal of occasions before I may obtain it to heap correctly.
Reply to comment


Teylor on 04 March 2016 11:57
I was really feeling excited to see the pictures and could not resist my temptation to read this post. I really wanted to be a mountain rider once. Now I am doing the related job of that with an agency.
Reply to comment


Mukta on 24 April 2016 22:49
Security regulations in riding a cruiser has been enhanced from that point forward. This change is apparently found in the decline of mischances in driving a cruiser. Thank you so much.
Reply to comment


rolex replica on 29 July 2016 07:10
It has been a long run of glorious weather over most of the UK and that has lead to lots of people out climbing.
Reply to comment


Leedom on 21 August 2016 02:17
mens uѕɑ soccer jersey cheap cubs jerseys
Reply to comment


High Jump Technique on 08 September 2016 08:37
mountain climb is not a easy task to do. it is highly recommended that do not go anywhere like hilly area for climbing without any training. to get proper training people spent year to year. but some of the stupid guy does not understand the reality.
Reply to comment


Themay on 22 November 2016 08:47
Great post!! This post is so informative and makes a very nice image on the topic in my mind. It is the first time I visit your blog, but I was extremely impressed. Keep posting as I am gonna come to read it every day!...
Reply to comment


replica watches on 27 December 2016 03:17
Provide replica watches uk online store, we will provide Rolex,Breitling,Omega,Cartier Replica watches up to 60% discount on our replica watches.
Reply to comment


Duvall on 27 December 2016 20:08
What is size of cheap sports jerseys wholesale may have? Know more about here - Outlet
Reply to comment


Elliott on 15 January 2017 04:04
Where to buy cheap Carson Wentz jerseys? Come here. wholesale nba arizona diamondbacks jerseys sale
Reply to comment


Webdriver training in Indore on 27 March 2017 11:47
Adventurous post. Mountain climbing is such a great work.
Reply to comment


Penrod on 08 April 2017 17:19
Great place to order wholesale Garrett Grayson jerseys by Paypal. cheap Paxton Lynch jerseys
Reply to comment


IT Jobs in Indore on 02 May 2017 12:57
Thanks for the post.
Reply to comment


Stull on 28 June 2017 16:12
How to get cheapest rugby shirts? Tips you may used. cheap Drew Kaser jerseys
Reply to comment


Baile on 14 September 2017 15:46
Which wholesale Mel Blount jerseys do you ever buy? Now this one site for sale: cheap Sam Mills jerseys
Reply to comment


Furphy on 22 October 2017 03:49
Who do you want to gift for cheap Letroy Guion jerseys? Get value into the page: Cheap Spurs 20 Manu Ginobili Grey Womens Static Fashion Stitched NBA Jersey
Reply to comment

Add a Comment

Your Name:
Email Address: (Required)
Website:
Comment:
Make your text bigger, bold, italic and more with HTML tags. We'll show you how.
Post Comment
Website Builder provided by  Vistaprint